I purchased my MoreBeer.comUltimate Stainless Steel Sparge Arm about 4 years ago. I still consider it to be one of my very best home brewing purchases. It has been durable, functional, reliable and most importantly clog free for me over the years.
One home brewing modification that I recently did, made something great even better! In my home brewery, I use a electric heating bar that allows me to lock in the temperature of my mash with no fuss. I just recirculate my mash, set the desired temperature and I am done. The mash recirculates back into the mash tun via my stainless steel sparge arm. Previously, I would then disconnect the sparge arm from the mash tun and connect it to my hot liquor tank when it was time to mash out. Now with the new stainless steel manifold that I made for the sparge arm, it is much safer and as easy as turning a nob.
More Beer Stainless Steel Sparge Arm
The above photo illustrates how it works. I swapped out the existing ball valve and added in 3 mini stainless steel ball valves as well as a stainless steel 1/2″ tee fitting and 2 90 degree stainless steel elbows. The whole process only took about 30 minutes to complete. I then covered the high temp silicone tubing with stainless steel braiding to make them easier to handle, reduce kinking and make it look a little sharper. Here is a list of all of the parts that I purchase for the project:
Everything worked out great on the project. I tested for leaks and cleaned all of the parts well with a hot mixture of PBW home brewing cleaner and water. Just a couple of tips. I ran three loops of teflon tape for all of the connections. I tightened all of the fittings as tightly as I could. For the stainless steel 1/2″ braiding for the home brewing hoses, I ran a small .5″ pipe through it first to stretch it out, then inserted the silicone tubing and that made getting on the tube much easier. I can’t wait to put it all to good use on my next batch of homebrew, which will either be a Coconut Porter or a Hazy IPA. If you have any questions on anything, just hit me up with a comment or on Facebook.
It has been a little while since I got any cool new home brewing gear, so I was pretty excited when the Amazon guy dropped this package off! One of my good friends is going to be getting married later this month. I figured that I would bring some home brewed beer to help celebrate. I have a Milkshake Hazy IPA in the fermentation chamber that should finish up just in time. The wedding is about 8 hours away and I am unfortunately limited on how much I can bring. Unfortunately a full sized keg is out of the question. So I began my search and finally ended up selecting this 128 oz stainless steel mini keg draft beer dispenser.
After cleaning all of the items well and assembling the parts (took about 5 minutes), I put some beer in the mini keg to try it out and it worked perfectly. It has a mini regulator that features a gauge so that you can carefully control the PSI of your CO2. I set the PSI to 5 and it poured beer perfectly with out excess foam or spitting beer halfway across the room. They say that the CO2 cartridge should last for at least one mini kegs worth of beer but I have yet to deplete one. The mini keg beer dispenser holds right about 8 pints of beer and you can purchase additional 128 oz mini kegs separately for about $35 each. I have a 64 oz stainless steel mini keg that I am also planning on bringing with my latest Viking Double IPA so that I have a little variety. They also offer a insulator sleeve, but I am going to try an keep it in a bucket filled with ice, so hopefully that will do the trick.
Keeps beer vacuum pressured and fresh for up to 2 months
Perfect for any homebrew or craft beer
Each CO2 cartridge will pump around 128 oz of beer before depleting CO2 cartridge
Monitor the mini keg growler’s current PSI from the regulator gauge and fine tune pressure by rotating the adjustment knob
Add the optional insulator sleeve to help keep beer cold
The accessories and mini keg are all constructed with 304 food grade stainless steel
Includes a pressure release valve
Laser marked at the fill level
Includes metal screw on lid for easy portable transportation and storage
The perfect size to fits in your home fridge
Perhaps the best feature of this stainless steel mini keg was the price! Amazon has it on sale with free next day shipping for just $114! If you are in the market for a great little draft beer system to help you transport your homebrew for the holidays, you can use the following link.
Right now More Beer is having some great deals going on for home brewing fermenters! They have some steep discounts running on both their own line of stainless steel conical fermenters and some of the SS BrewTech conical fermenters. Here are a coupon of MoreBeer promo codes found at Homebrewing Coupon.
I initially purchased my March home brewing pumps about 7 years ago, well before stainless steel homebrew pumps were really a thing. Once stainless pumps became more popular, I considered upgrading, but my existing pumps worked fine and I could not justify the cost. Then Blichmann released their RipTide home brewing pumps which feature a tri-clamp attached head!!! In my opinion that is a big deal because it allows you to easily gain access to the pump cavity for easy cleaning. As it stood, I had to rely on hot water and PBW to do all of the cleaning unless I wanted to spend an extra 30 minutes breaking down, clean and then reassembling each of my March pumps; which is really not something I wanted to do after a long day of beer brewing. The one down side was that a new Blichmann Rip Tide home brewing pump will run you $199+. So I waited…..
Then, Blichmann release the RipTide Upgrade Kit! The Rip Tide Upgrade Kit allows you to upgrade some of the most common existing home brewing pumps to a Blichmann Rip Tide, for just $99. With this RipTide Kit, you can upgrade your March or Chugger pump with the Riptide’s Tri-Clamp housing. The RipTide’s head is made from stainless steel and can rotate 365 degrees to fit almost any home brewing setup. The kit also comes with Blichmann’s integral linear flow valve, which provides superior control and eliminates the need for an upper ball valve in must situations.
Blichmann Rip Tide Home Brewing Pump Upgrade Kit
Here is a list of home brewing pumps that the Blichmann Riptide upgrade kit is compatible with.
After verifying that the Blichmann RipTide Upgrade Kit would work with my current March homebrew pumps, I place my order for two of them. After placing my order, it took about 8 days for them to arrive. I purchased them from More Beer, but the pumps were shipped directly from Blichmann.
Next step was to read the instructions (which were relatively simple), make sure I had everything needed (which was just a screwdriver, a couple of wrenches and some PTFE thread seal tape. The instructions from Blichmann came in black and white and unfortunately the contrast made it so that it was difficult to see where the washer was supposed to go, so I included some color photos here to help you out if needed. I began by breaking down my existing march pump per the instructions and removing my existing fittings. It is important that you just remove the pump head and NOT the magnet collar! The pump head was held on by 4 stainless steel screws in my case. Here is an image to help:
Blacihmann Rip Tide Upgrade Instructions
Next I mounted my home brewing pump on to the included stainless steel pump riser. This was not required in my situation but I like the idea of it because it raised my pump up a couple of inches, bringing it close to my kettles, reducing the amount of tubing that I needed and giving me a little more space to empty the pumps when I had to clear wort from them. Everyone’s situation is a little different, but it works well on my home brewing rig. After that you will want to mount the Tri-Clamp adapter bracket on to your pump. Blichmann includes two sets of screws to use, so make sure that you select the appropriate screws for your pump. Be careful not to over tighten the screws; doing so could crack the bracket or damage the pump. Next, place the impeller housing and the impeller into the pump magnet as shown in the following images:
Blichmann Rip Tide Home Brewing Pump Upgrade Instructions
Next is where I nearly had a problem. Install the pump head o-ring and washer to the stainless steel RipTide pump head. My first kit was missing the washer and the photo quality on the instructions that came with the kit were so bad, I could not tell if I was suppose to use one of the mounting washers. Something did not seem right and I would have then been missing a mounting washer, so I checked my second pump kit and could see that there was a smaller washer that was intended for the pump head. It thankfully had two in that box, so all was good. Here is an image to help you see where to place the o-ring and washer into the Blichmann RipTide pump head:
RipTide Upgrade Kit Installation Photos
Lastly mount the Blichmann RipTide pump head on to your pump using the include stainless steel 3″ Tri-Clamp and attach any fittings that you may have. The entire process took me approximately 30 minutes per pump to upgrade an re-install onto my home brewing stand. Except for the issue with the washer, it was very painless. Here are a couple of photos of the Blichmann RipTide homebrewing pumps after they were installed on to my homebrewing rig.
Finished Images Of The Blichmann RipTide Pump Upgrade Kit
Blichmann RipTide Home brewing Pumps On My Homebrewing Rig
Close up Image of the Blichmann RipTide Home Brewing Pump
After that I tested the RipTide home brewing pumps for leaks and checked to make sure all of the ball valve connections were free from leaks as well. All was good and I also took a short video in case anyone was curious about the type of pressure or flow rate that you could expect from the RipTide upgrade kit.
Guide on how to convert an old refrigerator in to a kegerator #kegerator #guide #howto #DIY
For the last several years, I have been using a boring old white refrigerator to store my kegs. Originally when it came time to purchase one, I was just looking for the best deal out there on a refrigerator that could keep my homebrew cold. I have been serving my beer from picnic \ cobra taps that sit lose on top of the kegs in my fridge. A couple of weeks ago I decided to take the keg fridge to the next level and convert it to a full fledged Kegerator with for taps to accommodate all of my kegs. After ordering the beer tap hardware at MoreBeer and taking a trip to the local hardware supply shop, I had everything that I needed to begin my work.
My goal for this homebrewing blog entry is to list out all of the basics of what you will need to conduct the process yourself but I am sure to miss something and if you need any specifics please feel free to ask; I am happy to help if I can. Please keep in mind that I am not a carpenter, engineer or machinist; so there are probably 10 better ways of doing this, I am just trying to share my experience in case it helps someone else out.
Step 1 – Ordering your gear! I figured that if I am going to take the time to do this project, I was going to do it right! Recently MoreBeer started to carry Intertap stainless steel beer facuets – tap, which are basically the Holy Grail of beer taps and the best beer faucets currently available!
I chose these intertap beer faucets for a few different reasons. For one, they offered an all stainless steel faucets which is important to me because I want it to last, I want my homebrew beer serving to be as sanitary as possbile and I do not want to be worrying about releasing strange metallic particulates in to my beer like I do when using an old chrome tap that erodes after time. Another great thing about these Intertap beer faucets is that they are forward sealing and with forward-sealing faucets the faucet keeps beer in it so the inside doesn’t have a chance to get sticky. This makes cleaning your draft beer system far easier. It also reduces the chance of off flavors transferring to your beer while you are pouring. One of the things that sets Intertap beer taps apart from other forward sealing beer taps is that Intertap faucets use a sliding shuttle that guides the internal o-ring into the perfect position every time. The Intertap stainless steel faucets are also modularly designed allowing you to add helpful items like a ball lock spout, stainless steel growler filling spout and an elongated stout beer spout! They have two varieties of beer faucets in all stainless and 1 features a flow control lever. I ended up getting one of the stainless steel flow control beer faucet and three of the standard stainless steel beer faucets.
MoreBeer has the best price I have found for Intertap Faucets and they also offer free shipping on any home brewing equipment or supply orders over $59. Here are links to them as well as links to the anti-microbial beer line which I also highly recommend. Do not forget to pick a shank for each beer faucet, I got the 4″ shanks and they have me plenty of extra room to run them into my refrigerator door.
For now, I am using chalkboard tap handles, which make it convenient to remind me which beer is on which which tap in case I consume a few too many and can no longer remember. At some point I would like to design a handle for each one of my home brewed beer that I make; but for now, these look great and are very functional tap handles. They come in both chalkboard style tap handles and white board dry erase tap handles:
Depending on what draft beer equipment you are starting with or if you have anything at all for that matter, there may be a few other items that you want to pick up, such as a CO2 manifold (which permits you to dispence CO2 to multiple beer kegs from one tank or regulator), homebrewing beer kegs, a CO2 Tank and regulator. Here is a link to a great place to start if your are looking for an entire draft beer setup or just random draft beer and keg items:
Those were the items that I picked up at MoreBeer, the remaining items I purchased at my local Lowes. I purchased 1 box of Stainmaster Vinyl flooring, which is great because it is resistant to liquid and stains; two things you need to consider when building your kegerator. Normal wood flooring does not do well with moisture so I would recommend avoiding it if possible.
I also picked up a small container of vinyl flooring adhesive, a plastic spreading knife, a razor blade cutting knife (to cut the vinyl flooring), a 1″ drill bill to cut the shank holes for the beer taps, chalkboard spray paint (for the refrigerator upper door), a 3″ wide plank of wood (to make a frame for the upper door), some wood stain to match the vinyl flooring, black duct tape for trim and a brushed aluminum kick plate to put on over the vinyl but under the beer faucets and tap handles.
Vinyl Fake Wood Flooring for my Kegerator Door
Once you have all of your supplies in hand, it is time to get to work! I started off my shutting off the refrigerator and giving it a good cleaning. Next I removed both of the refrigerator doors and all of the handles and hardware from the doors. I then sanded the refrigerator doors with a high grit sandpaper to make them more receptive to the vinyl adhesive and chalkboard spray paint. I did not remove all the paint but instead just roughed them up a bit. I then measured and cut the flooring so that it would fit my refrigerator door. After making all of the needed cuts, I applied the adhesive to the lower refrigerator door. I waited approximately 10 minutes as per the instructions for my adhesive and began to put the vinyl planks in place. I tried my best to mix the planks up a bit so that it did not look to repetitive as can be the case with synthetic flooring.
Placing the vinyl flooring on the refrigerator door.
These Stainmaster vinyl flooring planks were very easy to install. They locked in to place with one another crating a strong bond. After placing all of the vinyl wood planks, I put pressed down on each of the planks firmly and then set it to the side to allow it to dry. Next I began work on painting the upper door, building the wood frame and preparing the mash paddle door handle for the kegerator.
After giving it a little thought, I figured that I would paint the upper door with a chalkboard spray paint. I was hoping it would add some contrast to the kegerator doors and would also give me the option of adding some notes about the beer being served or allow me to change the appearance of the fridge easily by modifying the drawing on the board. Painting the door was very easy and I gave it two coats of paint.
Chalkboard kegerator door
After the upper kegerator door was painted, I began my work on creating a simple frame to give it a border and add some cohesion with the rest of the kegerator. I searched for the cheapest 3″ wide plank I could find at Lowes and had them cut it to the appropriate sized lengths which they are always kind enough to do at no cost. I joined the pieces together with some wood glue and staples. I was going for a rustic look so was not too concerned with any rough edges or the staples showing. I sealed some of the gaps with putty, sanded it down a bit and then stained the wood. Lastly I applied a clear acrylic coat once the stain had dried.
Chalkboard upper door frame for the homebrewing kegerator
Next up was crating a door handle for my homebrew kegerator. I wanted a door handle that said beer and homebrewing when you looked at it! So I decided to use an old mash paddle that I had hanging around the garage. I am really pleased with how it worked out, it is very functional and has the look and feel that I desired for my kegerator. I started by staining the mash paddle to a color that would contrast the wood on the doors but compliment the beer tap handles. I then drilled the mounting holes and used a wine cork as a spacer so that the top of the handle would have about an inch of gap between the kegerator door to make it more easy to open. I used a heavy stainless steel bolt to mount the top of the handle so that it would not pull off the door if one of my buddies starts lifting weights and pull the door open too hard.
Home Brewing Mash Paddle for a refrigerator door handle
Once the kegerator door handle was completed I mounted the doors back on the kegerator after I had verified that the flooring had adhered well enough and the paint had dried. Next I installed the brushed aluminum kick plate to the lower door after measuring it and cutting the excess metal off with a pair of tin snips. I placed the kick plate in the center of the area where I was planning on installing my stainless steel beer taps. I simply drilled it in with screws that would be long enough length to make it into the door but not so long as to pass in to the interior of the kegerator.
Home Brewing Kegerator Stainless Steel Plate for Tap Handles and Faucets
Once the kick plate was installed, it was time to position and install the frame for the upper kegerator door. I drilled some pilot holes and affixed the frame to the upper door with 4 screws. I then mounted the mash paddle kegerator door handle and applied some vinyl squid decals that I picked up online to add a little something different to the kegerator. It was then time to install the beer tap shanks! I drilled pilot holes and used my 1″ drill bit to cut the 4 holes for the stainless steel Intertap tap shanks. If I had this part of the process to do over again, I think I would have switched drill bits to a 1″ saw style drill bit as I think the holes would have been a little cleaner. On one of the holes that I drilled, some of the plastic splintered on the inside of the kegerator. It was not a big deal, but could have been better.
How to cut a draft beer tap hole for your kegerator
If you are like me and do not have room to fit your CO2 tank in your kegerator and or do not want to store your CO2 tank in the kegerator then you will need to drill a hole in the door to pass the CO2 line. I did so with a 1/4″ stainless steel pipe and brass fittings. It works well and makes it easy to disconnect from the kegerator door if needed. Eventually I am also going to drill 3 additional holes so that I can connect my SS BrewTech conical fermenter chilling system; but that is for a later homebrewing blog!
Install the CO2 hardware for your kegerator
if you are reading this while you are building your own kegerator, at this point all of the hard work is behind you and you are probably ready for a beer! Next clean up the mess that you have certainly created from drilling in to vinyl and styrofoam. Then slide the shanks in to the holes and tighten down the bolts on the inside of the homebrew kegerator. Once the stainless steel tap shanks are tightened in to place, you can install the beer taps – faucets on to the front of your kegerator. They make an actual wrench specifically for doing this but if you do not have one, you can simply hand tighten them. Next, attach your beer tap handles. All that is left is to connect the kegs, test for leaks and you are ready to enjoy a nice cold beer!
I really enjoyed this project and my hope is that some of this information will help a fellow home brewer or beer lover. If you have any questions or suggestions about converting a beer fridge in to a kegerator, please feel free to shoot me an email or leave a comment on the blog.
Prior to purchasing these home brew fermenters I tended to use glass carboys but would also use a plastic carboy on occasion. Often times I get asked if they are worth the money? For me I can quickly and honestly answer yes! The main reason is they are more durable and I do not have to worry about dropping one of my glass carboys anymore and having it send me to the hospital. I also got them for a great deal, or at least what I consider a great deal. I picked the stainless steel brew buckets up for $195 each, the 7 gallon for $395, and the 14 gallon for $495. There are a few more reasons why I like them so much.
They are constructed from 100% stainless steel, so if I care for them they will last a life time. Since these homebrew fermenters are built from metal, it also means that I do not need to worry about light oxidization while the wort or beer is in it. They are incredible easy to clean. If I want to I can transfer via CO2 pressure. My 14 gallon unit has a temperature control unit which makes fermenting an ale or a lager a breeze regardless of the time of year. My stainless brew buckets and 7 gallon conical fermenter all fit in my fermentation fridge and allow me to ferment about 18 gallons of beer as opposed to 10 gallons if I was still using my glass carboys! Dry hopping these are a snap since their lids come off, which make they a snap to clean as well. The conicals come with a thermowell built in and the stainless brewbuckets have a add-on kit for them as well; that makes monitoring temperature easy if you have a temp controller and fermentation chamber since it give you an actual temperature reading of the fermenting beer as opposed to the outside of the fermenter or ambient chamber temp which may be off by several degrees.
As you can see, filling the conical is as easy as it gets. It even has easy to read gallon markers etched into the inside wall of the fermenter. As you can see there are two ports on it. One for dumping large volumes from the base of the conical or harvesting yeast (which is simple and can save you some money) and a second transfer and tracking arm port for siphoning beer above the sediment and or yeast bed.
Transferring beer from the stainless steel home brewing brew bucket fermenter.
As you can see in the above photo, transferring beer from the stainless steel brew bucket is about as easy as it gets. It has a single port and rotating internal racking arm that makes transferring clear beer to the keg as easy as turning a valve. No more sanitizing siphons with these fermenters. Having less things to worry about or to clean is always a plus when it comes to home brewing.
Home Brewing Conical Fermenters
As I had mentioned earlier, cleaning these fermenters in very easy. I simply use some PBW, warm water and a nylon scrub sponge. The lid comes off so it is easy to reach everything and the conical fermenters come with sanitary clamps so they break down and reassemble effortlessly. I have used these fermenters for over 3 years now and still do not have one complaint about them!
If you are interested in picking one up, here are the links and best of all, they are shipped free!
Home Brewing stainless steel quick disconnects and quick connects can save you time and lower frustration levels on brew day. As the name suggests, quick disconnects allow a home brewer to quickly, safely and easily disconnect a home brewing pump or transfer tube and connect it to another item. They are easy to install and can make clean up a snap as well. Here are the best deals that I have been able to track down on some of the most popular 1/2″ stainless steel home brewing quick connects and quick disconnects.
Stainless Homebrew Quick Disconnect Bundle
Stainless Steel Quick Disconnect Set for Homebrewers $14.99 Purchase Here
Stainless Steel 1/2″ Barbed Male Quick Disconnect $5.99 Purchase Here
Home Brew Quick Disconnect
Stainless Steel Female Quick Disconnect with 1/2″ Barb for Homebrewing $9.99 Purchase Here
Stainless Quick Disconnect for Homebrewing
Stainless Steel Male Quick Disconnect 1/2″ MPT for Home brewing $7.99 Purchase Here
Homebrew Quick Disconnects
Stainless Steel Female Quick Disconnect 1/2″ MPT for Home Beer Brewing $9.99 Purchase Here
Sale Date: 7-9-2016 to 7-31-2016 Promotion Details: 8 Gallon Stainless Steel Kettle Just $49.99 Homebrewing.org Sale: 8 GALLON STAINLESS KETTLE
This is one of these deals that was worth a special post. If you are new to home brewing or currently using a 5 gallon kettle, this is a great upgrade for only $50. Adventures in Homebrewing currently has is offering an 8 gallon stainless steel home brewing pot for just $49.99. Best of all, this stainless steel home brewing kettle comes with 2, 1/2″ ports for things like a ball valve attachment or thermometer. This is an incredible budget kettle for 5 gallon home brew batches! These home brew kettles are 18 Gauge stainless steel home brewing pots with two welded 1/2″ female full couplings and lid. I am not certain how long this deal is actually going for, so you may want to act soon if you are looking for a new home brewing kettle.
Right now Adventures in Homebrewing / Homebrewing.org is offering a Brustus stainless steel homebrewing stand for $1299, with the burners included. This is a beautiful home brewing rig done in stainless steel. It sits a bit higher than the one that I built and has a few other structural differences but pretty darn similar, best of all, you don’t need to weld it yourself!
This stand is a great base to build off of and the frame allow you to easily add on items like home brewing pumps, a RIMS controller and just about anything you can dream up. One of the best things about it is that it does not come with a bunch of extras that you may not need such as kettles and wort chillers, like other home brewing stands do. This way you can use your existing equipment to save money and only pay for what you need.
It has been about a year since I purchased my 7 Gallon SS BrewTech conical fermenter and 14 gallon stainless steel conical fermenter. I have been very please with their performance and am happy to report that I have not had a single issue with them. The quality of the manufacturing is top notch and they were the best priced stainless steel conicals that I could find. Best of all they even shipped them for free, saving me a bundle.
Their price was recently reduced and they also release an upgraded Brew Master version of their already quality built line of stainless steel conical fermenters. So if you are looking to upgrade your homebrewing fermenters, this may be a great time to do so.
These stainless steel conicals come loaded with features, here are some of the specs:
Certified Food Grade 304 Stainless Steel Construction
Patent Pending Stainless Steel Rotating Racking Arm
They have a full range of these stainless steel homebrewing fermenters, including 1/2 barrel and full 1 barrel sized fermenter. Their brew bucket line of stainless steel fermenters is also on sale right now starting at $195.
I have compiled a list of some of the best prices I could find on homebrewing quick connects and homebrewing quick disconnects. Many of these deals include free shipping offers. I like to use stainless steel quick disconnects because they shorten my homebrewing day by making my hose connects and disconnects (which I have many of) quicker. With conventional threaded fittings, moving around your tubing can be time consuming, troublesome and even dangerous when working with hot liquids. Quick disconnects allow you to more quickly and easily move your home brewing tubing. They save time and decrease ware on fittings and hoses. I highly recommend them as an addition to your home brewery. Here are some of the best deals that I have been able to find on home brewing quick connects and homebrewing quick disconnects.
MoreBeer is currently having a sale on their top of the line Stainless Steel Conical Homebrewing Fermenters. If you are not familiar with MoreBeer you should check them out. Not only are they one of the best homebrewing supply outfits but they also manufacture some of the best homebrewing products, including stainless steel brew rigs and stainless steel conical fermenters. Right now their line of stainless steel conical fermenters is on sale and you can save a bundle while it lasts.
There is no promo code needed for this offer and it is valid on their 7 gallon conical fermenter, 14 gallon conical fermenter and 27 gallon stainless steel conical fermenter. These conical fermenters carry a 5 star user rating and are probably the best home brewing conical fermenter on the market.
Stainless Steel Conical Fermentor
These home brewing stainless steel conical fermenters are designed and fabricated in the USA by MoreBeer’s fabrication team of homebrewers. MoreBeer offers a variety of sizes for your homebrewing needs, from 5 gallon batches to above 20! These conical’s are built to last and are made from food grade 304 stainless steel. They also have the ability to hold up to 5 psi of pressure for sealed beer transfers. MoreBeer conical fermenters are built with professional quality and sanitary tri-clamp fittings that are welded in place for a lifetime of use. The have also included a stainless steel rotating racking arm that permits you to adjust where you are drawing beer from on the inside of the conical fermenter. The hatch on the top of the fermenter lid allows you to add dry hops or oak during the fermentation process if desired. MoreBeer homebrewing conicals are trusted by breweries like Sierra Nevada, Stone and Russian River for their pilot brewing systems.
Here are some of the features that these stainless steel conical fermenters boast:
304 Stainless Steel Construction and 1.5 inch butterfly valve
Commercial-quality gasket made from durable, food-grade silicone
Stainless Steel threadless racking arm
Professional sanitary sample and transfer valve
Cone removes from stand for easy cleaning
Domed lid with 3 inch clover fitting at the top
Sturdy lid clamp allowing for 5 PSI of pressure (with addition of CO2 Adapter package)
Includes stopper and airlock
With the current sale you can save hundreds of dollars on these fermenters!